There is a moment, often in the first few weeks, when you look at your bathroom differently. The evening serum, the body oil, the blemish gel: everything that used to go without saying becomes a question. You search, you read contradictory lists, and you end up putting everything away in a cupboard, just in case.
Most of your skincare can stay where it is. A few ingredients deserve to be set aside for nine months, no longer. Knowing them lets you sort things out in a few minutes, without emptying the shelf, and keep what does you good.
Key points
- Retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde) are to be set aside for the whole of the pregnancy.
- Hydroquinone and concentrated salicylic acid peels are to be avoided.
- Most essential oils are not recommended without professional advice, especially in the first trimester.
- Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, plant oils, niacinamide and vitamin C raise no known concern.
Cosmetics and pregnancy: the ingredients to avoid, made clear
During pregnancy, the skin absorbs more or less as usual. What changes is the caution: some actives pass into the bloodstream in quantities large enough to raise questions, or have never been assessed in pregnant women. When in doubt, you abstain. That is the whole principle.
The list of cosmetics and ingredients to avoid during pregnancy is short. It mostly concerns targeted treatments, anti-ageing, anti-dark-spot, anti-blemish, rather than everyday creams.
Retinoids
Retinol, retinaldehyde and their relatives are derivatives of vitamin A. Taken orally, prescription retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy because they carry a risk of malformations. In cosmetics, the doses are far lower, but the recommendation stays the same: stop them for the whole of the pregnancy. Anti-ageing creams, some anti-blemish treatments and "new skin" serums often contain them.
Hydroquinone
Used to lighten dark patches, it passes through the skin in notable quantities. It is avoided. This is all the more useful to know because melasma, the "pregnancy mask" of brown patches on the forehead, cheekbones or upper lip, makes you want to reach for it. Sun protection remains the safest answer.
Concentrated salicylic acid peels
Salicylic acid is a relative of aspirin. At a low dose, in a rinse-off cleanser, it is generally considered acceptable. Peels and highly concentrated leave-on treatments are to be avoided. In practice, peels are postponed until after the pregnancy.
Most essential oils
Natural does not mean harmless. Essential oils are concentrates of active molecules, and some can act on the nervous system or the uterus. As a precaution, they are avoided in the first trimester and, after that, used only on the advice of a midwife, a doctor or a pharmacist. They often hide in massage oils, "relaxing" treatments and belly balms.
The table for sorting things out
| To avoid | With caution | No known concern |
|---|---|---|
| Retinoids: retinol, retinaldehyde (prescription retinoids are contraindicated) | Heavily scented products | Glycerin |
| Hydroquinone | Ingredients suspected of being endocrine disruptors | Hyaluronic acid |
| Concentrated salicylic acid peels | Essential oils after the first trimester, only on professional advice | Shea butter |
| Most essential oils, especially in the first trimester and without advice | Salicylic acid at a low dose in a rinse-off cleanser | Plant oils (sweet almond, jojoba, sunflower…) |
| Niacinamide | ||
| Vitamin C |
This table sorts ingredients, not brands. The same type of product can end up in two columns depending on its formula.
What we treat with caution
This is not about banning anything. It is about choosing, when you can, the simplest version.
Fragrances
Pregnancy often makes the skin more reactive and the sense of smell sharper. A heavily scented product can irritate or turn the stomach. Fragrances are also among the most common causes of cosmetic allergies. Choosing lightly scented or unscented formulas is a matter of comfort, nothing more.
Suspected endocrine disruptors
Some ingredients are suspected of interfering with hormones: certain parabens, certain chemical sunscreen filters, some antibacterial agents. Knowledge is evolving, and nothing justifies panicking over a bottle you have already been using. Health authorities simply advise limiting exposure during pregnancy, as a precaution. Fewer products, shorter formulas: that is the calmest way to do it.
The sun
It is not an ingredient, but it is a subject. Hormones make facial skin more prone to dark patches. Daily sun protection, a hat, shade during the hottest hours: these are the habits that best prevent melasma, the "pregnancy mask". Many women choose mineral filters during these months.
What raises no known concern
Ingredients that hydrate and nourish are almost all compatible with pregnancy. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid hold water in the skin. Shea butter and plant oils, sweet almond, jojoba, sunflower, evening primrose, nourish and soften. Niacinamide soothes redness and helps even out the complexion. Vitamin C gently brightens.
For the belly, hips and chest, these textures are enough. If you are hesitating between several formats, we explain how to choose between an oil and a cream for the belly. And to find out what a product can really do against the marks, read what we know about pregnancy stretch marks.
Reading an ingredient list in a few minutes
The INCI list, printed on the back of every product, looks daunting. Yet it reads fairly quickly, with three reflexes.
- The first ingredients matter most. They are listed in descending order of concentration. At the end of the list, ingredients present at less than 1% may appear in any order.
- Look for a few words, not all of them. Retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, hydroquinone, salicylic acid. For essential oils, Latin plant names followed by oil or leaf oil are a clue, as are parfum and fragrance.
- A short list is easier to read. It is not a guarantee, but a ten-ingredient formula can be checked at a glance.
Unsure about a specific product? Your pharmacist can read the list with you. It is their job.
What changes after the birth
Caution does not quite end with the birth. If you are breastfeeding, the recommendations on retinoids and essential oils often remain the same, and you avoid putting anything on your breasts that the baby could swallow. For the nipples, simple care is enough; we cover this in our article on nipple care while breastfeeding.
The sorting you do during pregnancy also prepares what comes next. A simplified bathroom is one less thing to think about when you are preparing for your post-partum.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use retinol during pregnancy?
No. Retinol and the other retinoids should be stopped for the whole of the pregnancy, as a precaution. Prescription retinoids, for their part, are strictly contraindicated. If you were using them before you knew you were pregnant, talk to your doctor or your midwife.
Are essential oils dangerous for pregnant women?
Some can be, because they are concentrates of active molecules. They are avoided in the first trimester and, after that, used only on the advice of a healthcare professional. The same goes for massage oils that contain them.
Which face cream should I use during pregnancy?
A simple, lightly scented moisturiser based on glycerin, hyaluronic acid or plant oils works very well. Niacinamide and vitamin C can help with the complexion. During the day, sun protection remains the most useful step.
Do I need to throw away all my cosmetics when I am pregnant?
No. Most everyday skincare is compatible with pregnancy. You simply need to set aside, for the duration of the pregnancy, the products that contain retinoids, hydroquinone, concentrated salicylic acid or essential oils.
How can I tell whether a cosmetic contains an ingredient to avoid?
By reading the INCI list on the back of the product. Look for the words retinol, retinal, hydroquinone, salicylic acid and plant names followed by oil. If in doubt, your pharmacist can check it with you.
Skin that changes
For nine months, the skin stretches, changes colour, reacts faster. It does not need much. A product that hydrates, sun protection, a few minutes to yourself in the evening.
The rest can wait at the back of a cupboard. There is no rush.
To go further, read what we really know about pregnancy stretch marks.
Sources
- Centre de référence sur les agents tératogènes (CRAT, the French reference centre on teratogenic agents), fact sheets on retinoids and pregnancy
- Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament (ANSM, the French medicines agency), recommendations on the use of essential oils in pregnant women
- Santé publique France (the French public health agency), information on endocrine disruptors and the first 1,000 days